In February (it seems like only yesterday), I made my fifth visit to Eastern Hokkaido’s winter wonderland. I have written before at length about my love affair with Japan, so I won’t bore you by going over old ground but if you haven’t been to Japan and especially to Hokkaido in winter (and I don’t mean Niseko), take my word for it and go!
Although only an eight day trip, photographic opportunities were excellent especially at my favorite location, Lake Kussharo, where the swan photography was the best I have seen.
The only negative for me on the trip was that while we did experience a wide variety of weather conditions, we probably had a little too much sun for my liking which made for challenging photo conditions in the middle of the day. The upside of course is that we had some really nice early morning and late afternoon light. Better still, we had three mornings of dazzlingly beautiful, hoar frost-covered trees.
Winterscape panoramic showing hoar frosted trees, swirling mist and snow covered forested mountains, Wakato, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; 5 image, stitched panorama, Canon 1D MK4, Sigma 50-500mm lens @138mm, handheld, f11, 1/400th sec, AV +1/3rd, ISO 250
Lake Kussharo is a large lake. While there are one or two well-known photographic sites to which photographers congregate, there are several other lesser known spots which you usually have to yourself and it is to these that I gravitate.
The first three images in this set were taken early in the morning, before sunrise when most of the swans in this group were either still sleeping or were relatively sedentary. The final image was made after the swans had fully woken up and had become more active. The key to all these images was correct composition with the swans framed by the overhanging frost/snow covered branches and importantly, no merging of the branches with the horizon and no or minimal merging of the swans. The mood was also important and I’ve deliberately retained the blue caste in the three colour images to given a sense of both the peace and tranquillity as well as the cold. By far and away the hardest part of photographing in Hokkaido in winter is the cold. I wear one pair of thin gloves over which I have a pair of retractable mittens with the pockets stuffed full of hand warmers. After more than about 30 seconds with my digits out of the mittens, they start to freeze up and become numb and painful which also makes it close to impossible to operate the camera’s controls. So I find myself regularly having to stuff my fingers back into the warmth of the hand warmer-encrusted mittens to revive circulation.
Whooper Swans at dawn on lake in winter, under snow covered tree branches, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 IS lens @18mm, handheld, 1/250th sec, f11, ISO400, manual exposure
Whopper Swans on lake at dawn, Lake Kussharo, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @16mm, handheld, 1/200th sec, f13, ISO400, manual exposure
Whopper Swans at dawn on frozen lake opening under overhanging branches, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @22mm, handheld, 1/160th sec, f13, ISO640, manual exposure
Whooper Swans at dawn in winter on lake under tree branches, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan, Canon 5D MK2, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @16mm, handheld, 1/125th sec, f11, ISO250, manual exposure
The next two photos were taken at another secret spot where in five years I have never encountered a single other photographer. Incredibly, these two photos were taken within an hour of each other. The weather can change suddenly in these parts and after a nice sunset, clouds rapidly rolled in and heavy snow began falling.
Whooper Swans on frozen lake opening at sunset, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @25mm, handheld, 1/160th sec, f11, ISO640, 2 Lee graduated neutral density filters (5 stops), manual exposure
Whooper Swans on frozen lake opening during snow storm, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @16mm, handheld, 1/80th sec, f10, ISO1,000, manual exposure
The following images were shot at a slightly more popular site but one that you can still often have to yourself. The first image is probably my favourite from the trip, shot with a bendy 8-15mm fisheye lens. I really wanted to get the hoar frost-covered branches into image with the swans. I tried my 16-35mm lens but it wasn’t wide enough. While there was no way to avoid having the branches merging with the snow covered mountains, I still like the way the branches frame the birds.
Fish-eye view of Whopper Swans on frozen lake with frost covered overhanging tree branch over lake opening, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 8-15mm f4L fisheye lens @14mm, handheld, 1/250th sec, f16, ISO200, manual exposure
This is a more moody image, with steam rising from the thermal heated water in the cold air.
Whooper Swans on thermal heated lake waters with steam rising, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 16-35mm f2.8L 2 lens @23mm, handheld, 1/400th sec, f11, ISO200, manual exposure
If you go to Lake Kussharo you will definitely spend time at the main swan area. The swans gather at this spot because they are fed grain twice a day. It can be particularly rewarding early in the morning when the swans fly in over distant trees, which sometimes as in this first image, are covered with hoar frost, before banking against a backdrop of snow covered mountains, and landing on the frozen lake. What’s missing from these images is the sound of the birds’ trumpet like calls piercing the cold air. Almost immediately upon landing, the birds will throw back their heads and call raucously. When several land at the same time, the winter silence is broken with the sounds reverberating around the lake. I’ve stood on top of some of the adjacent mountains on a windless day and have been able to pick up the sounds several miles away.
Whooper Swans flying over hoar frost covered trees, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @373mm, handheld, 1/1,600th sec, f8, ISO 500, manual exposure
Whooper Swans landing on frozen lake, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan, Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm @93mm, handheld, 1/1,000th sec, f9, ISO640, manual exposure
Adult and juvenile Whooper Swans flying in to land on frozen and lake with snow dusted mountains in the background, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @113mm, handheld, 1/1,600th sec, f9, ISO640, manual exposure
Whooper Swans landing on frozen lake, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan, Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @203mm, handheld, 1/1,250th sec, f8, ISO640, manual exposure
Whooper Swan standing on frozen lake, calling, with wings stretched forward, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @244mm, handheld, 1/1,000th sec, f9, ISO640, manual exposure
Two Whooper Swans on frozen lake, calling, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @244mm, handheld, 1/1,250th sec, f9, ISO500, manual exposure
It would be remiss on a trip to Hokkaido to ignore the stark but often beautiful landscapes. While I am not an advocate of copying or emulating other photographers’ styles, it is very hard not to be influenced by Michael Kenna’s haunting, minimalistic landscape images taken in the depths of the Hokkaido winter.
I find myself especially drawn to solitary trees or small groups of trees on snow-covered ridges and after some exploratory snow-shoeing (easy and highly recommended if you have not tried), I found one such area. Here, multiple Wildencounters participant, Paul Quah, pauses as he snow-shoes through the area’s snow covered slopes.
Paul Quah on snow shoes amongst trees on snow slope, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 24-105mm f4 IS lens @28mm, handheld, 1/250th sec, f11, ISO200, manual exposure
I’ve always been attracted to minimalistic type photography so these lonely trees were especially appealing to me. This small selection of images may not be for everyone, but I definitely plan on doing more of this type of photography in the future. Already I have some good ideas on how to be more creative when I return.
Tree in snow field, Hokkaido, Japan: Canon 1D MK1V, Sigma 50-500mm lens @287mm, handheld, 1/500th sec, f9, ISO500, manual exposure
Trees on snow covered ridge, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 70-200mm f2.8L IS lens @140mm, handheld, 1/400th sec, f11, ISO100, manual exposure
Trees on snow covered slopes, Hokkaido, Japan: Canon 5D MK3, Canon 24-105mm @40mm, handheld, 1/100th sec, f11, ISO500, manual exposure
Leafless trees in snow field, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK1V, Canon 600mm f4 IS 2 lens, Gitzo tripod, 1/500th sec, f10, ISO400, manual exposure
This year I didn’t spend as much time as previously with the Cranes, in part because it was so good at the swans but also because we had a lot of sunny days when we were with the Cranes. However, there were still some nice opportunities. I didn’t plan on getting the Crane heads into the first image but it really helps to add additional interest as this White-Tailed Eagle swoops over them.
White-Tailed Eagle flying towards Red Crowned Cranes, Eastern Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MK IV, Sigma 50-500mm lens @500mm, handheld, 1/1,600th sec, f8, ISO 1,000, manual exposure
For some reason, I haven’t taken many portrait pics of the Cranes on previous trips. Nothing special here but the technicals are all in order.
Red Crowned Crane head shot, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MKIV, Canon 600mm f4 IS 2 lens + 1.4x TC, Gitzo tripod, 1/640th sec, f7.1, ISO 2,000, manual exposure
As usual, it was hard to resist taking images of the Cranes flying and coming into land. This one was taken late in the afternoon with the bird framed against a distant, dark, forest-covered hillside.
Red Crowned Crane coming in to land against dark forest, Hokkaido, Japan, Canon 1D MKIV, Sigma 50-500mm @373mm, 1/2,000th sec, f8, ISO320, manual exposure
Since there are already a gazillion flying Crane images out there, I end up spending most of time using slow shutter speeds, usually panning with the bird. Given my preference for retaining some sharpness in the bird’s heads, you need to take a lot of images to get one decent one but when you do get something worthwhile, the results, in my opinion are much more pleasing than a static flying bird image.
Red Crowned Crane flying over snow and past forest, with motion, Hokkaido, Japan; 5D MK3, Sigma 50-500mm @500mm, handheld, 1/50th sec, f11, ISO400, manual exposure
A different technique here – no panning, high key and converted to monochrome.
Red Crowned Crane flying, with motion, high key, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Sigma 50-500mm @273mm, handheld, 1/15th sec, f8, ISO1,000, manual exposure
Owing to the uncooperative weather while at the main Crane sites, I spent very little time trying to capture the courting Crane dances. And when I did capture some spectacular action, the background was not behaving! A shame, because this is about as good as it gets action-wise.
Red Crowned Cranes engaged in courtship dance in mid-air, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 1D MKIV, Sigma 50-500mm @167mm, handheld, 1/2,000th sec, f8, ISO640, manual exposure
In Africa I sometimes have to hang around for hours or even days waiting for something to happen, but in Hokkaido, especially if the weather is co-operating, you can shoot almost non-stop from dawn to dusk and even at night. The images shown in this blog represent just a tiny selection of the images that I made during my eight day stay.
Star filled sky at night above barren trees, Lake Kussharo, Hokkaido, Japan; Canon 5D MK3, Canon 24-105mm @24mm, Gitzo tripod, 25 sec, f5, ISO1,600, manual exposure
When you throw in the wonderful food, the amazing hot springs to soak in at the end of a day out in the cold and the warm hospitality that I always receive, Hokkaido has become one of my favourite photo destinations and I always look forward to going back. So I will be back next year, co-leading a larger group (this year I took only three persons). Already I am counting down the days.
Clemens Vanderwerf
April 19, 2013
Hi Paul,
Nice story and images really showing the environment at its best. You did good considering the sunny circumstances. I like the minimalistic trees in the snow field. How do you like you new lens? Just curious.
Best,
Clemens
Paul Mckenzie
April 19, 2013
Hi Clemens, the Sigma 50-5000mm lens is incredibly good. I was stunned at how sharp it is as long as you shoot at f8 or above (as you indicated to me). It’s so versitile. My Canon 70-200mm and 300 f2.8 lens are gathering dust! I wonder if Sigma will issue a mark 2 version of this lens, maybe a stop faster? The lens could actually be a bit heavier and still be very hand holdable. Maybe Robert O’Toole knows something.
Margie McNamara
April 19, 2013
Great shots Paul! I love the cranes! One day I’ll get there!
Nicole
April 19, 2013
Paul, thanks so much for sharing these. Absolutely amazing. I especially like the shot of the swooping eagle and the “lonely” shots. I really hope to accompany you on one of these trips to Japan. Over 2 years there and never made it to Hokkaido.
Paul Mckenzie
April 19, 2013
Hi Nicole. Sorry we are not going to see you in Rome in the summer. Amaya is now getting to an age where Paveena and her can come on some trips with me. They came to the snow monkeys with me in January. Would be great if we can all do something together.
Gordon Lindsay
April 21, 2013
Great images as usual Paul, I always enjoy your stories too, not sure about the Whopper Swans (LOL0
Hans Hoefer
April 22, 2013
Paul , Great shots. I was in Hokkaido end of March, yes in Niseko, and walked the slopes and forests in deep snow. Faboulous , away from the crowds. But, Do you know, by chance, what the fall colors are about there ? Some people told me “better than the fall colors in Kyoto /Nara ! “… Any feed back on that ? Hans Hoefer hhoefer@mac.com
Paul Mckenzie
April 24, 2013
Hi Hans,
I know that in Central Hokkaido in September (not sure the exact week) that there is some fantastic fall foliage. I will definitely go at some stage.
Ross
April 28, 2013
Hey Bro,
Amazing photos as usual. I always get a bit nostalgic when I see ones from Hokkaido, as it brings me back to my year there – one of the happiest I have spent.
So you’ll just miss us in Ireland. Too bad but sooner or later our paths will cross.
PhilR
June 2, 2013
Nice shots. I was there a little bit earlier than you. Too much sun for my taste during the first 15 days of Feb 2013.
Osvaldo Larrain L.
June 14, 2013
Fantastic work Paul , I like them all an also the story , my congratulations
Jaime Migoya
July 9, 2013
Hi Paul:
Great shots! I particularly liked the Eagle and flying towards the cranes. Congratulations
Denise Ippolito
July 31, 2013
Paul, Beauituflly done as always!
Nicola
August 29, 2013
Stunning photography! The swans on the lake with the branches overhead… too Japanese for words! (Quite surreal too.) I’ve painted Japanese screens for many years and see Art written all over this photography. Impressive.
Paul Mckenzie
October 12, 2013
Thx Nicola. When I saw this image shaping up, I had the same feeling as well.
Best regards, Paul
hans Hoefer
September 30, 2013
Any update on Fall color pictures ? I am planning to go to Niseko 11 of October ! wonder if this is too late or too early for best color …. rgds Hans
Paul Mckenzie
October 12, 2013
Hi Hans< I don't know as I have not been to Hokkaido in Fall. Paul
Gordon Lindsay
October 14, 2013
Thanks for sharing Paul, really liked the eagle shot and the whooper swans.
Robert Hutson
November 12, 2013
I’m headed there this winter. I remember you from a trip to Antarctica two years ago. Your photography is something to admire and strive for. Gives me a lot of information on what to bring. Looks like the 600 is going. I’ve not used the 50-500 but it looks like a great lens. Like the 28-300 but more range. Do you run tours these days??
Paul Mckenzie
December 9, 2013
Hi Robert. Yes, I remember you from that great trip. Am still leading tours on a limited basis including as co-leader to Hokkaido this February (sold out). Not sure if you are on my blog but if not I may announce something to Kenya for next October soon if you are interested.
Derek Watt
December 1, 2013
Hi Paul, I discovered your site while looking for info on Hokkaido. I have my first trip there next Jan/Feb hopefully I’ll come back with some top images also.
Paul Mckenzie
December 9, 2013
Good luck Derek. I’ll be there in February also. Best regards, Paul
Lindie Sauer
February 2, 2014
Hi Paul- were given your website by Ruth Vogele. We are going the 21st February for 2 weeks and if I can bring home just a few like yours , I’d be incredibly chuffed. Thsnks for the meta data info-worth a lot! Lindie
Ari
February 16, 2018
Hello Paul,
Excellent images and narration.
Can you kindly tell me which Red Crane reserve in Kushiro is preferable for photographic point of view.. Regards,
Ari.
Paul Mckenzie
March 7, 2019
Hi Ari,
Sorry that it has taken me a year to respond! The answer is the one in Tsurui.
Ari
March 7, 2019
Hello Paul,
Thanks for your reply. Went last year there and enjoyed a lot. Best wishes. Regards,Ari..